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QUICK RECOMMENDATION:<\/em><\/strong> Our absolute favorite puppy toy for new dog owners is the Calmeroos Puppy Toy with Heartbeat and Heat Packs<\/a>. It acts like a puppy\u2019s littermate and your pup will feel more comfortable in her new home.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n It\u2019s an exciting time! For many of you, it\u2019s your first week home with your new puppy. Most people will bring a puppy home at around 8 weeks old.<\/p>\n\n\n\n That is not always the case as unforeseen circumstances can happen, you may be rescuing a puppy, or a breeder may be sending your puppy home earlier or later than 8 weeks.<\/p>\n\n\n\n PRO TIP:<\/em><\/strong> I would encourage you to wait until your puppy is at least 8 weeks old if possible before bringing her home. This gives your puppy a chance to learn how to interact with other dogs by playing with her siblings. One very important point is bite inhibition or learning how to control the strength of her bite often called a \u201csoft mouth\u201d<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n I\u2019m going to make an assumption that this is your first week home with your puppy. Here are a couple of posts you might find helpful if it\u2019s your first week or you\u2019re getting a puppy soon:<\/p>\n\n\n\n I\u2019m going to be somewhat brief in this section, but I wanted to give you a few quick pointers.<\/p>\n\n\n\n I know everyone\u2019s experience is different depending on whether you\u2019re getting your puppy from a breeder, rescue, shelter, or service dog organization, but here are some basics that apply to most situations.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Not to worry if you miss one or more of the above items. When I brought home Linus I didn\u2019t get any pics of him or his siblings, I wasn\u2019t able to get the scent of the littermates, and I didn\u2019t have any supplies, but he still turned out to be a great dog.<\/p>\n\n\n\n When I brought home Stetson I was by myself. I only have two pictures of him the day I picked him up. Also, the drive home wasn\u2019t too fun especially when he started howling, but I got through it and he was still a wonderful puppy.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Finally, my most recent puppy, Elsa, I had all the above items on my checklist and it still didn\u2019t go smoothly because we are living in the world of COVID-19. I brought a camera, but we didn\u2019t get any pics because the pick-up was short and sweet. Luckily we got a few pics when we visited the litter at 6 weeks old.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Not everything goes as planned. Enjoy the moment and try not to stress about every little detail.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Since our days raising guide dog puppies, we\u2019ve been teaching our puppies to ride on the passenger side floorboards.<\/p>\n\n\n\n When a guide dog rides in a car she normally rides between her handler’s legs on the passenger floorboards thus the reason why we train guides to ride in this position.<\/p>\n\n\n\n There are a couple of safety reasons for this as well:<\/p>\n\n\n\n Here\u2019s how we train our puppies to ride in the car on the floorboards:<\/p>\n\n\n\n Here are some other options you can try with your puppy:<\/p>\n\n\n\n DO NOT LET YOUR PUPPY:<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n A good rule of thumb is if you wouldn\u2019t let your child do it then it\u2019s probably not good for your puppy.<\/p>\n\n\n\n PRO TIP:<\/em><\/strong> When training our service dog puppies I teach all 4 methods for riding in the car. When our service dogs start working it\u2019s possible they may have to ride using any one of these methods. It\u2019s best to prepare our puppies for anything.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n Our first car ride with Elsa was uneventful (trust me, that’s a good thing). I put her blanket on the passenger floorboards. I grabbed a small plush toy and a bully stick and placed Elsa on the floor. She gnawed on the bully stick for 10 minutes then fell asleep between my legs for our 2 hour car ride home. Easy Peasy!<\/p>\n\n\n\n Our first car ride home with Stetson was not great. Even though it\u2019s been 13 years I still remember like it was yesterday. I was by myself and had to crate him for the car ride. He cried for the first 10 minutes until he eventually fell asleep. About 90 minutes into our 2-hour drive home he started to cry again. I was almost certain he had to pee but had nowhere to pull over. When we got home I did notice a little pee spot on his blanket in the crate. It was not a great start to his car rides and crate training.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Our first car ride home with Derby was not fun. This time I was in the passenger seat with Derby at my feet. Like Stetson, he cried for 10 minutes and settled, but not after he threw up on his blanket and my shoes. Luckily I was prepared and had a roll of paper towels to clean up.<\/p>\n\n\n\n One final note on car rides. If your puppy is really struggling to ride in your designated spot for her first car ride you can try giving her a more comfortable spot on your lap. However, after the first ride, I recommend working on training and getting your puppy to settle on the floorboards, crate, or with a dog harness attached to the seatbelt.<\/p>\n\n\n\n A puppy collar, tags, and leash are essential for every puppy. It seems simple enough…purchase and put on your puppy. The problem is many puppies have never seen nor worn these items and hate “getting dressed”.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Here are a few tips to help you with your puppy collar, tags, and leash:<\/p>\n\n\n\n A few tips for getting started with your puppy collar:<\/p>\n\n\n\n WE LIKE<\/strong> a flat nylon snap collar for your puppy\u2019s first collar like the Blueberry Collar<\/a>. They\u2019re easy to take on and off and can be thrown in the wash if they get a bit smelly.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n We have two tags on all of our puppies (our service dog puppies have a third tag that includes the school\u2019s information and the puppy\u2019s name and ID number).<\/p>\n\n\n\n One has their microchip information and the other has personal information in case our puppy gets lost. Here are a few tips on pet tags:<\/p>\n\n\n\n WE LIKE<\/strong>: We usually purchase our tags from our local pet store. However, you can save a little bit of money by ordering GoTags<\/a>. We actually purchased Stetson’s CGC tag online many moons ago.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n When I first started raising guide dog puppies I never thought too much about dog leashes. I assumed the best leash for my dog would also be the best leash for my puppy. I was mistaken.<\/p>\n\n\n\n When training my dog I love a good leather multifunction service dog leash. The problem with the leash I use for my dog is it\u2019s too heavy for my little puppy.<\/p>\n\n\n\n WE LIKE<\/strong><\/em> a 4-foot long, \u00be wide, nylon leash with a snap bolt clip for your puppy like this PetSafe Nylon Leash<\/a>.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n Our Labs, Golden Retrievers, and German Shepherds outgrow this leash at around 4-5 months old. If you have a smaller dog this leash may be adequate for much longer.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Just like the collar, there\u2019s a good chance this is the first time your puppy has worn a leash. It\u2019s very unnatural for a puppy to wear a leash and she may buck, fight, yelp, kick, and bite at the leash.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Some puppies will decide to not move at all with the leash on.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Here are a few tips for getting your puppy started with her leash:<\/p>\n\n\n\n Elsa and her collar, tags, and leash. We’re lucky and haven’t had any real issues with Elsa. She pulls on her leash like a normal puppy, doesn’t mind the collar, and from time to time will chew on her tags when she’s on tie-down. All totally normal stuff.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Then there was Derby, my second guide dog puppy. Back in the day, our guide dog school would not introduce puppies to collars, leashes, and tags until they went home with their puppy raisers. Derby’s biggest issue was he wanted to chew, chew, and chew his pet tags and leash. He kept at it so often that you could no longer read the engraving and actually gnawed through one of his nylon leashes.<\/p>\n\n\n\n PRO TIP #1:<\/strong> If your puppy chews on her pet tags then first make sure she has a properly fitting collar and second tape the tags to the collar. Without the dangling tags, she won’t be able to chew them anymore.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n PRO TIP #2<\/strong>: If your puppy is chewing on her leash try spraying the leash with Bitter Training Spray<\/a>. Some puppies hate the taste and will avoid chewing the leash after a few tastes.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n For more information check out our step-by-step blog post on teaching your puppy loose leash walking (coming soon)<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n This is more of a getting-started guide to tell you how we potty train our puppies during the first week home.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Potty training your puppy is easy. All you have to do is follow one simple rule:<\/p>\n\n\n\n Never let your puppy relieve herself in the wrong place, and praise her when she goes potty in the correct place.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n That\u2019s it! Easy peasy! Right?<\/p>\n\n\n\n When Should You Take Your Puppy Out To Potty?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n Here are a few more quick tips to help you on your puppy potty training journey:<\/p>\n\n\n\n Constant supervision is the best way to get your puppy potty trained fast. During the potty training phase, we keep our puppy tethered to us 100% of the time when indoors, and if we can\u2019t watch our puppy we use our crate.<\/p>\n\n\n\n We used constant supervision with Elsa during her first week home and she only had 2 accidents. Both accidents were my fault.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Besides those two mishaps, potty training with Elsa has gone great!<\/p>\n\n\n\n For more information check out our more extensive post on how to potty train a puppy<\/a>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Service dog handlers need their dogs to potty on all different surfaces. In fact, it\u2019s a good idea to teach your puppy (even if she’s not a service dog in training) to pee and poop on the grass, dirt, gravel, concrete, etc. Why?<\/p>\n\n\n\n Let me tell you a quick story about Linus. Linus grew up only going potty on the grass. We didn\u2019t think anything of it until we went camping in the Sequoias. Our campsite had zero grass, only dirt. Twenty-four hours passed and Linus hadn\u2019t pee\u2019d or pooped.<\/p>\n\n\n\n He thought he was only allowed to potty on the grass. Needless to say, we were very worried about Linus\u2019s bladder and thought about driving down the mountain to where we last remembered seeing grass (about an hour’s drive).<\/p>\n\n\n\n Lucky for us about 30 hours into our trip he finally took the longest pee I\u2019d ever seen. Think Tom Hanks in A League of Their Own.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Since then we\u2019ve always worked to have our puppies pee on all surfaces. So, how do we do this?<\/p>\n\n\n\n This works well for a young puppy. Basically, at an early age when a puppy has to go she will generally just go anywhere.<\/p>\n\n\n\n However, if you wait a little longer when your dog can hold her bladder real well you may end up in a situation as I did with Linus.<\/p>\n\n\n\n So, how’s Elsa doing with her multi-surface potty training<\/strong>? We mainly have her go potty at her regular potty spot which is gravel (as I mentioned earlier when potty training it’s important to go to the same spot as much as possible), but we’ve also started practicing on grass, dirt, and concrete.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Like our Potty Training Basics section, this section is a how-to get-started guide for crate training.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Remember every puppy is different. Some puppies require a slow introduction to the crate while other puppies see the crate and its love at first sight.<\/p>\n\n\n\n I recommend you start slow and see how it goes.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Here are a few quick tips I\u2019d recommend when crate training:<\/p>\n\n\n\n Those are some tips off the top of my head.<\/p>\n\n\n\n How did Elsa do in the crate?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n Finding a good breeder is very important not just to find a healthy puppy with a good temperament, but your breeder also spends the first 8 weeks with your puppy. Our breeder is also a certified trainer and she starts crate training her litters at 5-6 weeks old.<\/p>\n\n\n\n By the time we got Elsa, she was doing very well in her crate. We worked on positive interactions with Elsa and the crate as much as possible the day we brought her home.<\/p>\n\n\n\n At night we crated her around 9 pm and she woke up 5 times throughout the night for potty breaks. More than average, but she didn’t fuss when we put her back in the crate after going potty.<\/p>\n\n\n\n By her fourth night, she slept 8+ hours without interruption and has been sleeping through the night ever since.<\/p>\n\n\n\n For more information check out our step-by-step guide on how to crate train your puppy (coming soon).<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n Depending on where your puppy comes from I highly recommend you feed your puppy the same food she is currently eating for at least 2 weeks. After that, you can slowly transition your puppy to another food of your choice.<\/p>\n\n\n\n I like to at least rule out changing foods as the cause of a puppy\u2019s upset stomach during her first weeks at home. <\/strong>All of these points and more can cause an upset stomach:<\/p>\n\n\n\n What I\u2019m really talking about here is diarrhea which is no fun especially when you\u2019re trying to potty train your puppy.<\/p>\n\n\n\n PRO TIP:<\/strong> Something you should add to your essential puppy supplies list: Pumpkin Supplement<\/a>. Diarrhea is the worst! We use pumpkin supplements to help when our puppies have an upset belly.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n Here\u2019s what and how much we are feeding our 8-week-old Lab puppy, Elsa:<\/p>\n\n\n\n Every puppy is different and the amount and type of food you feed is up to you and what you think is best for your puppy.<\/p>\n\n\n\n As your puppy grows you\u2019ll want to increase the amount of food you feed. Take a look at this post for more information: Feeding Your Labrador Puppy<\/a>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n We teach our puppies to sit and wait for their food until we give the release word \u201cOk\u201d. Here are our step-by-step instructions:<\/p>\n\n\n\n Elsa picked up on sitting and waiting for her food very quickly following the steps listed above. As far as 8-week-old puppies go she\u2019s been fairly calm.<\/p>\n\n\n\n I\u2019ve had some more excitable puppies over the years that love food and I\u2019ve from time to time had difficulty getting them to sit still during this exercise. It takes patience, persistence, and consistency.<\/p>\n\n\n\n As my daughter quotes Daniel Tiger: \u201cKeep trying, you\u2019ll get better!\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n PRO TIP:<\/strong> Stand on the leash (or use a tie-down<\/em>). One thing that has worked for me is to shorten up the leash and stand on it. When your puppy finally stops bouncing around you can start lowering the bowl to the floor. Wait for a moment of calm from your puppy before releasing her with an \u201cok\u201d. Believe me, even the uber-hyper puppies learn this exercise fairly quickly. <\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n DO NOT RESTRICT YOUR PUPPY\u2019S WATER: <\/em><\/strong>It was once thought that restricting water could aid in potty training. However, restricting water can lead to your puppy overdrinking. This can lead to constant urination and dribbling. If puppies have access to water all the time then this habit does not usually develop.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n We start teaching our puppies to be cradled on day 1. This is something we learned to do when raising guide dog puppies.<\/p>\n\n\n\n What do we mean by cradling? This is when we put our puppy between our legs on her back and gently massage her.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Some puppies enjoy cradling right away others do not. If your puppy is struggling you can try first getting her to relax between your legs on her stomach. When she is comfortable in that position try rolling her onto her back.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Once you have your puppy calm and in the cradle position, examine her ears, mouth, teeth, nose, eyes, stomach, paws, and tail. Look for lumps, bumps, or any health concerns.<\/p>\n\n\n\n This is a great time to get your puppy used to being touched and handled and helps when your puppy has a vet check on her wellness visits.<\/p>\n\n\n\n One other benefit we\u2019ve loved about cradling your puppy. Once your puppy gets used to this position and can easily relax we like to cradle our puppy to calm her down.<\/p>\n\n\n\n If you\u2019ve had your puppy any amount of time then you know about the zoomies or basically crazy, insane puppy behavior<\/a>. Zoomies often happen when our puppies are tired.<\/p>\n\n\n\n We cradle our pups for a couple of minutes, it relaxes them and they will often take a nap on their own after we\u2019re done cradling.<\/p>\n\n\n\n We started cradling Elsa from day 1. As far as puppies go she’s been a little more squirmy than others. The good news, was by the end of the week she was pretty good about settling down during our cradle time.<\/p>\n\n\n\n There’s so much to teach our puppies during the first week that we don’t worry too much about basic obedience.<\/p>\n\n\n\n We do try to get them started with a couple of simple skills including “Sit” and Name.<\/p>\n\n\n\n This is one of the most basic skills most people teach their puppies. You can start this when you first get home.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Here are some tips on how to teach your puppy to sit with a lure:<\/p>\n\n\n\n That\u2019s how we taught all of our guide dog puppies to sit. More recently we\u2019ve been working on capturing rather than luring this behavior which is an entirely different process.<\/p>\n\n\n\n We\u2019ll put together another blog post that covers the process of teaching your puppy luring, capturing, and shaping (coming soon)<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n The first thing you need to do when teaching your puppy her name is choose a name for your puppy.<\/p>\n\n\n\n We blew it! In my best Adam Sandler voice. We didn\u2019t have a name chosen on the first day home. Yes, yes, I need to be more decisive, but now that we\u2019re a family of 5, naming a puppy<\/a> is done by committee. Long gone are the days of me casting the one and only vote when naming my puppies.<\/p>\n\n\n\n By the way, we have a 3-year-old daughter and 1 \u00bd-year-old twin girls thus the name Elsa or more formally Queen Elsa of Arrendelle.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Back to our task at hand. How do you teach your puppy her name?<\/p>\n\n\n\n Here\u2019s what we do to get started with teaching our puppy her name:<\/p>\n\n\n\n When we say our puppy\u2019s name we want her to look at us.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Here are a few extra tips to help you out:<\/p>\n\n\n\n DO:<\/strong> use your puppy\u2019s name with positive experiences.<\/p>\n\n\n\n DO NOT:<\/strong> use her name in a negative tone or during a negative experience.<\/p>\n\n\n\n A great way to teach your puppy her name is to play the Name Game. For more information check out our post on teaching your puppy her name with the name game<\/a>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n The first week home is a great time to let your puppy get adjusted to her new environment.<\/p>\n\n\n\n You have to remember your puppy has only been on this earth for 8 weeks and is now suddenly shifting from having all of her siblings and mother around every day to being in a new home without any of her familiar family members.<\/p>\n\n\n\n However, I wouldn\u2019t say you shouldn\u2019t do anything with your puppy. Here are some of the things you can do at home that are totally new to your puppy:<\/p>\n\n\n\n It\u2019s important to understand that your puppy is susceptible to catching different diseases and illnesses at this age because she is not yet fully vaccinated.<\/p>\n\n\n\n However, it\u2019s equally as important to understand that your puppy requires socialization or she may become fearful as she gets older. It\u2019s a balancing act for sure.<\/p>\n\n\n\n We follow the recommendations from the American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior (AVSAB) when it comes to socializing our puppies.<\/p>\n\n\n\n From the AVSAB website:<\/p>\n\n\n\n The primary and most important time for puppy socialization is the first three months of life. During this time puppies should be exposed to as many new people, animals, stimuli, and environments as can be achieved safely and without causing over- stimulation manifested as excessive fear, with-drawal or avoidance behavior. For this reason, the American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior believes that it should be the standard of care for puppies to receive such socialization before they are fully vaccinated.<\/p>\nAVSAB Puppy Socialization Position Statement<\/a><\/cite><\/blockquote>\n\n\n\n What does this mean for our puppies? Most vets say your puppy is safe to go out after their rabies vaccination at around 16-20 weeks old. However, this is after the primary socialization period for puppies.<\/p>\n\n\n\n We, therefore, choose safe outings for our puppies to try and minimize the risk of illness while also getting them exposure to new experiences.<\/p>\n\n\n\n What are some things you might do to socialize your 8-week-old puppy away from your home?<\/p>\n\n\n\n All of the above is more than enough activities to help socialize your 8-week-old puppy.<\/p>\n\n\n\n If you plan on taking your puppy out then I\u2019d recommend doing it in the second half of the week after your puppy has gotten used to her new home first.<\/p>\n\n\n\n It’s Elsa’s World! We gave Elsa a few days to get used to her new home. Elsa is a confident puppy although she can be a bit wiggly and energetic. We have a lot of different surfaces in the backyard including dirt, grass, gravel, wood chips, and concrete. Elsa has no problem with any of these surfaces. She met about a dozen people and even visited my parents and in-laws’ homes.<\/p>\n\n\n\n You should schedule a puppy wellness checkup ASAP to make sure your puppy is in good health whether she came from a breeder, shelter, or rescue. If there’s anything wrong with your puppy it’s best to find out sooner rather than later.<\/p>\n\n\n\n We rescued Linus from the shelter and right away we knew he was sick. He was lethargic and my girlfriend at the time thought he was dead because he wasn’t moving during the car ride home. We got him on the weekend and I got him to the vet by Monday morning for a wellness checkup. He had a laundry list of issues including fleas, mites, worms, anemia, and a stomach virus. Our vet gave us some meds and within a week Linus was feeling much better.<\/p>\n\n\n\n PRO TIP<\/strong>: Schedule your puppy wellness checkup before you get your puppy if you can. Right now we’re in the middle of a pandemic and vet offices are jam-packed.<\/a> We tried to schedule a wellness checkup for Elsa the day we brought her home, but we had to wait nearly 2 weeks for an opening with our veterinarian.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n Talk to whoever you got your puppy from whether it be a breeder, service dog school, rescue, or shelter to find out what vaccines have already been given to your puppy.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Then talk to your veterinarian about a vaccination schedule for your puppy.<\/p>\n\n\n\n One thing to keep in mind is many veterinarians are still on an old annual vaccination schedule. Annual vaccinations are often not necessary and overkill for a puppy which can be a detriment to your pup\u2019s health.<\/p>\n\n\n\n We follow the AAHA guidelines<\/a> and only vaccinate when necessary. You can ask your vet for an annual titer to test your puppy to see if she needs to be vaccinated.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Here\u2019s the vaccination schedule that we are following for Elsa:<\/p>\n\n\n\n We\u2019ve raised 4 puppies for Guide Dogs of America and they require heartworm medication.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Our vet highly recommends heartworm medication for puppies as well. However, the recommendation from our vet is to have Elsa tested for heartworms at 6 months and then start her on Heartguard Plus<\/a>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Heartworm is a nasty disease that can be very painful for your dog and can lead to death.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Heartworm is more or less prevalent depending on where you live. It\u2019s a good idea to talk to your vet and ask if you should start your puppy on heartworm medication.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Flea medication for your puppy may be essential or not required depending on where you live. One of our friends lives in the high desert and she has zero fleas.<\/p>\n\n\n\n I\u2019ve had very few problems with fleas and only give flea medication during the peak flea seasons if necessary.<\/p>\n\n\n\n When I first brought home Linus over 15 years ago, I lived near the beach. For whatever reason living near the beach meant fleas and Linus was on his flea meds 12 months a year.<\/p>\n\n\n\nWhat Should I Expect From My 8-Week-Old Puppy?<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
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Before Picking Up Your Puppy<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
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Teaching Your Puppy To Ride In The Car<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
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PRO TIP<\/strong>: Make sure you get a high-end<\/em> dog harness that has been crash-tested. Most harnesses are not safe if you\u2019re in an accident. The Center for Pet Safety<\/a> tested several dog harnesses and crates to find which ones were safest in a car accident.<\/em><\/li>\n\n\n\n\n
Puppy Collar, Tags, And Leash<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
Puppy Collar<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
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Puppy Tags<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
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Best Puppy Leash<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
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Puppy Potty Training Basics<\/h2>\n\n\n
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My Puppy Won\u2019t Pee On Dirt<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
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Puppy Crate Training Basics<\/h2>\n\n\n
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LESSON LEARNED:<\/strong> I’ve been raising puppies for a long time and I made this mistake. Elsa went into<\/em> the crate right after a meal because we had to go out for an hour. We made sure and relieved Elsa before we left. Unfortunately, she still had a poop blowout in the crate. \ud83d\ude41<\/em><\/li>\n\n\n\n\n
Feeding Your Puppy<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
Why feed your puppy the same food for 2 weeks?<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
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How much should I feed my 8-week-old Labrador Retriever puppy?<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
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Teach Your Puppy To Sit For Food<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
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How To Cradle Your Puppy<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
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Basic Obedience For 8 Week Old Puppies<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
Teaching Your Puppy To Sit<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
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Teaching Your Puppy Her Name<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
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Where Can I Take My Puppy At 8 Weeks Old?<\/h2>\n\n\n
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Puppy Wellness Checkup – Vet Check<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
Puppy Vaccination Schedule<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
Schedule<\/th> Vaccines<\/th><\/tr><\/thead> 8 Weeks Old<\/td> Distemper, Adenovirus II, Parvo, Parainfluenza<\/td><\/tr> 12 Weeks Old<\/td> Distemper, Adenovirus II, Parvo, Parainfluenza<\/td><\/tr> 16 Weeks Old<\/td> Distemper, Adenovirus II, Parvo, Parainfluenza<\/td><\/tr> 20 Weeks Old<\/td> Rabies<\/td><\/tr> 1 Year<\/td> Rabies (required by law), Titer for Distemper & Parvo, boost if deficient, but spread out one month from Rabies shot.<\/td><\/tr> Every 3 Years Thereafter<\/td> Rabies (required by law), Titer for Distemper & Parvo, boost if deficient, but spread out one month from Rabies shot.<\/td><\/tr><\/tbody><\/table> Heartworm Medication For Your Puppy<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
Flea Medication For Your Puppy<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
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